Have you ever been to a beach on the East Coast in April? Maybe after it’s been raining? The air has that smell of sand, water, a bit of musk, and a certain greenness from all the wild grasses suddenly booming out of the ground? That’s the flavor of dried white Button mushrooms. Natural. Nearly ethereal.
The broth? Sweet, dainty, twee, but with hints of earth. It is a broth that should always be saved. Cook it to boil udon noodles, and then serve the noodles cold with the champignon mushroom (lightly sautéed in sesame oil), and some chopped scallion and paper-thin slices of your favorite green chile. You will find no better summer solace.